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Spring 2003,
Volume 24, Number 1
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By BRIAN PAYTON, BA ’89
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Lessons learned where land and water meet.
LET ME CONFESS RIGHT
UP FRONT: I chose
UVic beacuase of a picture of the sea. I can still
remember the admissions brochure, which featured
the saturated blue of Haro Strait just a short jaunt
from the student residences. Of the three universities
I was considering for a bachelor’s degree,
only one was on an island and, for me, this gave
UVic an unfair advantage. I visited the other two
campuses to make a sober and informed decision,
but after I’d walked down to the beach at
Cadboro Bay, I knew where I’d be spending
the next four years.
I can pinpoint the event that would forever change
my relationship with the sea. It happened when I
walked into the musty confines of UVic’s recreation
equipment room 17 years ago. I was halfway through
my Creative Writing program when I discovered the
battered surfboard hidden behind the hockey nets,
tents, and canoes. This was the mid-1980s, long
before Vancouver Island’s surf secret had
gone mainstream. When I asked the attendant, he
explained that there was good surfing up the west
coast of the island—at Sombrio Beach, Jordan
River, and Pacific Rim National Park. I laughed
out loud. I’d already tested the local waters
and knew that hypothermia would set in long before
a wave could be caught. This was Canada, after all.
He shrugged, pulled out a faded two-piece dive suit
and said, “Give it a try.”
A quick drive up to Long Beach confirmed the incredible
rumour. Before the sun set on that first day of
my virgin surf safari, I was hooked. I would never
look at the Pacific the same way again.
Surfing has much to teach about power, respect,
patience, and timing. All good lessons for life
and love. The sensation of paddling out through
the kelp, choosing the perfect wave and then dropping
down its face are for me a dance, a collaboration,
a partnership with the sea. It’s also something
I too rarely achieve. I have to admit, after all
these years I’m still very much a novice.
Still, I have floated in the wake of a breaching
gray whale and I’ve shared waves with curious
sea lions and seals. I’ve been tossed so hard
in the wash that, in complete disorientation, I
swam straight for the sandy bottom. I’ve spent
many, many of my best days surfing on Canada’s
Pacific shore.
Then five years after graduation, I took a sailing
course—a “crash” course, as it
turned out. Cruising along at six knots, my keel
“touched bottom” on a submerged reef
and I quickly learned a whole new way of relating
to the sea. For the first time, I looked beyond
the waves and found more than just a blank space
separating chunks of land. My worldview expanded—I
became focused on the water in between.
Eventually, I moved to Denman Island and discovered
that I still have a lot to learn from the sea. On
colossal Vancouver Island, it is easy to forget
that one is separated from the mainland, but on
Denman and BC’s other Gulf Islands, the sea
presses in close on all sides. Here, the grand illusion
of endless resources cannot be maintained; the limits
are inescapably clear. Once all the trees are chopped
down, once all the waterfront is developed, it’s
too late. Because there are no more forests just
over the horizon, no more unspoiled beaches just
around the bend. On these islands, it is impossible
to ignore the consequences of our actions. For the
most part, islanders govern themselves accordingly.
Last spring, research for my second novel took me
to the Aleutian Islands. I was saddened to learn
just how quickly the human and animal populations
of this remote archipelago were irreparably changed
when “discovered” by Europeans. The
Russian adventurers who arrived in 1741 had little
concept of, or regard for, the possible limits of
what they encountered. They enslaved the native
Aleut people, systematically hunted the sea otter
to the verge of extinction and, within the space
of a single generation, slaughtered the world’s
last Steller’s sea cow (a large northern manatee).
The inhabitants of these islands had become perfectly
adapted to surviving on the edge—that line
of demarcation between land and sea. They had struck
a balance. Unfortunately, even their extreme remoteness
could not save them from recklessness and greed.
Islands have lessons to teach us continentals. These
fragments of paradise allow us to clearly see our
destructive potential and what we are in danger
of losing. Framed by the sea, they show us our world
in miniature—a finite, fragile beauty.
Vancouver-based writer
Brian Payton's first novel, Hail Mary Corner,
is set on Vancouver Island. He can be reached at:
www.brianpayton.com
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